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Muskiefool's release-tools & techniques - Muskiefool esittelee vapautusvälineitään ja niiden käyttöä
Lukijan arvio: / 2
HuonoParas 
Kirjoittanut Muskiefool   
02.01.2008
I think its paramount to teach and learn from others when it comes to catch and release (C&R), no matter what country or what species we fish, I'm going to go over some tools and techniques I use to get fish back in the water with little or no harm, some say delayed mortality is 10%, 5%, all kinds of numbers floating around most are based on hear say I think, I would bet the actual number is less than 1% if proper methods and tools are used, some studies show just over 1% for what they call optimized (reduced mortality) techniques, that amounts to artificial lures and typically shallow hooking.

So here it goes and remember I use these because they work best for me and are the best Ive found for the application.

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Net

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I really like the Stowmaster, it has a great bag, it's very compact and it's made completely in the U.S.A. and Canada. It requires some manipulation to make happen though and everyone should know how to make it open and lock in. The bag is coated small mesh and I've never had a problem with the bait winding up in the net or the fishes fins being damaged. There are a lot of nets out there, just do some home work before you make a choice and take in all the factors before plunking down 150+ bones for something you will not like.


Bolt Cutters

 
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I like the Knipex cutter mainly because it is the best quality cutter on the market. They make some cheaper and they do work for awhile, the problem is with the pins and quality of the steel cutting edges, also Knipex has a lifetime guarantee and if it means spending an extra 25 bucks to assure the hooks are gonna be cut on the first squeeze it's worth it to me. I know I can cut the shank of any hook in my box fast and clean with these cutters.

(hooks)
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The Diagonal Cutter

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These are a great tool to keep with you because of the angles cutting head. They will reach places at goofy angles. The models shown are recommended by my friend Kevin Van Cleave. They are Snap-On 11 inch and will provide some good leverage and protection for yourself. I need a pair - right now I use a 8 inch pair of Kliens but they are pretty short for a deep hook.


Pliers

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There are several pliers that come to mind all with a place in the C&R box first, the ol' standby the Hookout. I've used them for many years and they do the work but you have little leverage and grip with them. Typically they are plenty good enough but there are times when the next level of tools is needed such as,


The Linesman's

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These are just great. The pic shown is of the new 9.5 inch Knipex, they have tons of leverage and a cutting edge that will snap the hook point off in a jiff. I've had a pair of 9 inch in the boat for years and they have seen some action but they suffer from length limitations, that's when these baby's come into play:


Channellocks
 
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These are great for the boat just as long as you get a model that's long enough, like a 430's or 440's. These provide tons of leverage and power. I've had a pair in the boat for many years. They aren't required often but when you need them. Nothing else fits the bill like a Channellock.



The Long nose pliers

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Ive used used them many times but these are a new one for me, they are 13 inch with articulating jaws and a killer grip with tons of leverage. These I can see being a fish saving tool and a new Must Have in the box, not that the 8 inch are gonna go overboard but for a deep hook situation I think these will save many fish over the years compared to the other 13 inch non-articulated pliers. These have solved the loss of leverage issue with the old style. I love 'em, Thanks to Dan Crooms for hooking me up, now were going into a very specialized area.


The Hook Pick

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I've heard several stories about the mouth being pinned and the fish dieing or the Double 10 spinner baits hooking deep. This is the proverbial ticket - you have a 13.5 inch tool specially made for large hooks placed deep in the fishes mouth. I was shown this by Mr. Steve Jonesi this fall and got one as soon as I got home from the trip. All you do if the mouth is pinned is push the end of the tool into the mouth (3/16th of a inch wide wire) and push the hook back and open the mouth so you can start to work. Sure the fish may lose a tooth but it will save it's life, a worth while trade. I really love this baby and it leads me into the tools minora (lesser).
 Laughing


Boga

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It does have a purpose and it isn't weighing big fish. I like it to handle small fish at boats side for water release, also a lot of the guys use them for releasing fish if they run high sided boats, which is better than torpedoing the fish. I don't recommend holding the fish by the lip with this tool when they get over 4-6lbs.

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Gloves

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I like them for cold water and handling small aggressive fish like Pike, otherwise I prefer to have a skin on skin feel. I think it avoids possible damage due to not being able to feel what you have in your hands. The gills seem to stick to the fabric and I think that may get nasty. DAO has a great pair but they are not to be found, but they are definitely useful.


Jaw spreaders

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Basically a small fish tool, I've had a 7lb pike send these across the boat pretty much a useless tool for anything bigger than that I feel.

I assess what I'm going to need before the fish ever sees the net, I look at hook placement and the condition of the fish also consider the fight, water temps, who I'm with and their proficiency with the tools and release, there's guys I will just assist because I know they are going to go right at it and do the right thing the first time to get her on her way to your bait.

I always keep my rod low to prevent the fish from jumping. This is very hard on fish especially big fish, Ive had several on a long line that jump and there's just nothing you can do but hope for the best. In high surface temp situations a jumping fish can be a death sentence, it takes to much out of them. One buddy has seen big fish break their back on the jump and it was confirmed by the Taxidermist doing the vivisection, so do all you can to keep 'em low in the water and save the show for T.V.

I always keep fish in cold weather in the water to avoid the freezing air on the gills, skin (slime coat) and eyes, especially in the wind, remember you have a jacket and can blink to heat and lubricate your eyes -- the fish can't. Also you may be able to find a person to feed you when you go blind but the fish isn't as lucky as that so keep 'em in the drink.

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Limit any time out of the water to 10 seconds or less under optimal conditions (35-76F deg air and water temps) over and under that keep 'em wet please, and take the week or two off when surface temps get over 78 to 80+ Fahrenheit. It's an undue stress on the fish and we usually need to fulfill a honey do list by then anyway.

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Handling for a Photo

Image Photo is her going back in

As soon as the hooks are out I make sure that the Camera Man or Woman is ready to go and that the camera is on, the LCD is working so it can be a point and shoot scenario. At this time I remind them that their will be time for 2 quick shots and she goes back. If we don't get it we have a good memory anyway and a nice release shot.

One of my favorite angles is the fish in the water looking at the camera along with the Angler, Mr. Voigt has some incredible shots like this with some if the biggest fish Ive seen, definitely a winner because she never leaves the lake.

Back to the lifting and the cradle - there is a short time that the fish will be vertical and supported by her jaw, that's the real downside of this hold but try to keep it to a minimum and start supporting the fish with both hands while on your knees - this is hard on your back but it's necessary with BIG fish to avoid breaking their neck and dislocating the jaw - to pick up the fish, turn her on her side for a moment. This will relax the ol' girl and give you a second to get her accustom to your hand being there without her going crazy. Be very gentle with her and treat her like a lady. When you turn her and you get her grasped firmly in your hand bring her up easy and turn for the pics and lower her the same.


Self Shots

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If you use a timer, set it to 10 seconds, hit the button, reach down, lift her out, turn and get the shot. This works great and trust me 10 seconds is long enough for a delay, just make a few practice shots and your gonna like the results.

She Goes nuts in your hand

Ive had this a few times and all I can recommend is to stay cool and let your elbows relieve the shock do not go rigid and do not drop the fish!!! I had this happen with a nice fish last summer, she gave no warning - I never felt her load. Up she just went coiling away from my body.

I always hold a fish close so I can use my body to direct her and roll with her. This is impossible to accomplish if you are holding her at arms length to make her appear larger than she really is in the picture. Remember to go with her,  not against her, and you'll reduce the damage dramatically, especially if you dump her on her head on the carpet trying to get that arms length photo.

This fish owned me and it happened in a instant even doing everything I could. It's not a photo I'm proud of but it illustrates what the fish is capable of and how to move with her and not fight her to death. I followed her head up with her force and rolled back to the seat as she twisted and still maintained some support on her body.

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Barbless

F
or all the right reasons, fast hook removal with minimal tissue damage to the fish and potentially yourself.

The most important thing is to use your head and don't panic, always put the fish ahead of your ego and your needs. The fish needs to swim so you can provide the ultimate gift to someone else, the fish of their lifetime. It's the most unselfish act ever perpetrated by sportsman and it makes you a better angler and person in the end.

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She died on me

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Things don't always go as planned. Very rarely fish die from the fight. It can happen, if you have done all you can do to save the fish. Don't regret it but try to learn from it. If you made mistakes that cost the fish please learn from these mistakes so you will not duplicate your disasters but multiply your success. If you're looking for a skin mount that is the one to stuff, if you already have a mount donate it to a club or DNR office for educational reasons, seriously reconsider before you intentionally kill another for the wall if you already have one. Please think before you act - the quality of reproductions and the effect on the fishery of incremental harvest is just not necessary, a reproduction will last you a lifetime, the skin will eventually change and not for the best.

Joe Fittante Replica 51" Thank You for supporting MI and C&R Joe

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Skin Mounted LOTW 51" from 1977, oil leaching through the skin, head and fins have shrunk considerably.

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Remember 100% release is always a good choice for you the fish and the future

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The Other ESOX

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Final words -- Remember to treat small fish and fish of other species and size with the same respect you afford the larger ones, a nice pike is a valuable fish, even more so than a trophy Muskie in many body's of water, in many country's these are prized fish and should be viewed the same in your home waters or abroad, they are a wonderful fight, we need to protect Northern Pike the same way we protect Muskies, it's so very important to the future of the lakes and sport fishing, Pike and Muskie are the key components to stabilizing and controlling undesirable fish and we NEED them both so give a Pike a break.

_________________
Muskiefool


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1. 12-05-2008 19:19
 
What, no comments?? Maybe people don't find these, or then it's the language... Well I went this through quickly but I can tell it's a great article! Lot's of pictures and very nice pictures indeed. Different tools are shown and so on - great work! Hopefully you'll get more comments! :zzz
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